Djemaa El Fna Marrakech
Get ready for the greatest show on earth. Everywhere you look in Jemaa el-Fna, Marrakech’s main square (pronounced ‘Djemaa El Fna’ – the letter ‘e’ is not pronounced), you will find drama unfolding here. The hustle and bustle and the halqa (street theatre) have been going on here since the 11th century. A few decades ago this was the site of a daily food market for mountain traders. Now, however, the howling flutes of the snake traders of Pungi reach their peak by mid-morning, and the real show only starts at sunset, when the restaurants fire up their grills, signaling the musicians to tune their instruments.
History of Djemaa El Fna
Jemaa El Fna originated in the 11th century, around the time of the founding of the city of Marrakech by the Almoravids. Historians and locals debate whether the square’s name is due to the fact that public executions were probably held here: one translation is “assembly of the dead.” Another translation is “mosque of the dead,” which may be a reference to the partial collapse of the nearby Qutubiyah mosque in the 18th century, which buried worshippers inside. Marakech
For centuries, Jemaa el-Fna Square was used as a giant food market: merchants flocked from the mountains to settle under canvas tents every day. Early photographs from this era can be admired in the Maison de la Photographie. The modern boundaries of the square were established by the French, as all the buildings around Jemaa were built during the protectorate.
In 2001, UNESCO declared Djemaa el-Fna a World Heritage Site for bringing urban legends and oral history to life at night. Although the storytellers who once performed here have given way to communal games, musical performers and comedians, Jemaa’s night carnival continues to amaze. Amazigh musicians turn up the volume, gnahua groups sing, henna tattoo masters lure passersby, and water sellers in fringed hats clink brass cups to encourage people to drink. It’s an unmissable spectacle and a convenient one, too: applause and a few dirhams guarantee an encore.
The square’s many eclectic displays are not without a dark side: clothed monkeys can be seen being carried around in chains for entertainment, and some of the snake charmer’s actions in the square are ethically questionable, to say the least.
A cultural collapse on Jemaa?
Jemaa El Fna has been a protected urban landmark since 1922, and since 2001 it has been listed by UNESCO as a place of unique cultural exchange. However, UNESCO has marked the square as a place under “serious threat” of urbanization and cultural assimilation.
For centuries Jemaa has been a stage for gnashed dance troupes, whispering fortune-tellers, acrobats on wheels and, above all, kayaks (storytellers). Today the last storytellers are gone and with them many of the traditional performers of the square. Jemaa is still the pulsating heart of the medina, but like its inhabitants, it moves with the times. Live music and local cuisine are its 21st-century calling card.
Morning in Jemaa el-Fna
Take a stroll around the Jemaa when it wakes up to catch the market at the time of minimum activity. At this point, the scene is almost empty. Orange juice vendors and snake charmers with baskets of copper are the first to occupy the scene. Thirsty dentists, potion sellers, and henna tattoo masters start setting up makeshift stalls under umbrella awnings.
Jemaa El Fna at night:
No cars are allowed into the square after 2 pm, and local food stalls start setting up for a night out around 4 pm. As the sun sets, Jemaa finds its daytime rhythm: Amazigh (Berber) bands and gnahua musicians begin to set up, and locals pour into the square. The bustle doesn’t stop until 1 am. For a different perspective, head to one of the rooftop cafes that surround the square.
Food kiosks in Jemaa el-Fna
Spicy snail broth, skewered hearts, bubbling tagines, fried fish: the food kiosks on Jemaa are a one-stop store for Moroccan culinary dishes not to be missed. Despite the alarming warnings, your stomach should be fine. Wash your hands before eating, use bread instead of utensils and stick to filtered water.
The counters are numbered and located on a grid. Cooking snails are lined up on the east side. For fried fish and calamari, take a seat on the bench at booth #14. Look for a pretty woman named Aicha, who runs stall 1 in the southwest corner, where you can buy kebabs (kebabs), tagine and hariru (a cheap and hearty soup of tomatoes, onions, saffron and coriander with lentils and chickpeas).
After dinner, join the locals at a row of copper tea urns at the southern end of the stalls. The specialty here is a warming ginger khudenjal tea with cinnamon, poppy and cardamom, served with a spoonful of thick, gooey, and equally spicy cake. A stop at Chez Mohammed’s No. 71 is the perfect way to end a meal.
Tips for exploring Jemaa el-Fna
- When walking around Jemaa at any time of day, watch out for cars, motorcycles and horse-drawn carriages that ply the perimeter of the square (no car traffic after 2 p.m.).
Be wary of pickpockets and muggers, who are known to prey on crowds, especially after sunset.
To get the best seats in the makeshift seats around the musicians (priority is given to women and the elderly), arrive early in the evening.
Keep a Dhs1 coin handy to tip the performers. A few dirhams (a little more if you were taking pictures) is all you need when your hat is off.
Keep in mind that you will see chained monkeys dressed in sports jerseys defiling in front of tourists, and the practice of snake charmers is ethically questionable. We advise you to avoid both.
Where to stay near Jemaa El Fna?
The highest concentration of budget hotels in Marrakech is in this area. Most are a stone’s throw away from Jemaa El Fna, along Sidi Bouloucat and Rue de la Recette (a short walk from bus stops and airport cab drop-off points). Luxury riads can be found on Riad Zitoun El Jedid to the southeast.
Where to eat near Jemaa El Fna
Want to try snail broth? Want to try mechoui (slow roasted lamb) or the famous “bachelor” tanjia in Marrakech with its spicy flavour? Jemaa el-Fna and its surroundings are the best place for adventurous gourmets. South of the main square there are more luxurious options. For a more serious meal, head to Hadj Mustapha, an unassuming dining room serving the best tangia in town.
The front terraces of the quaint cafes surrounding Jemaa el Fna are the best places to enjoy the city views. There are a few places in this area that serve alcohol, if you know where to look. If you’re feeling tired, head to the Grand Balcon du Café Glacier terrace for a mint tea.
How to get to Djemaa el-Fna
Djemaa el-Fna is on the outskirts of Marrakech’s medina, an ancient part of the city surrounded by walls. It’s a 20-minute walk from Bab Doukkala in the northwest or a 15-minute walk from Place des Ferblantiers in the south. From Gueliz city centre, you can take bus 1 or 16. Morocco Tours From Marrakech