On the windswept Atlantic coast, about two hours southwest of Marrakech lies the small town of Essaouira. “Swerah” is what the locals call it. Our Essaouira travel guide will help you discover the highlights, of its old Portuguese name, ‘Mogador’. This blue seaside town combines some of the best Morocco has to offer – excellent beaches, great food, and vibrant culture – with a laid-back vibe that isn’t so prevalent elsewhere in the country.
This vibrant city has a long history of colonization. The Portuguese were responsible for building the massive stone walls that still surround Essaouira’s old medina. This is one of the reasons why it is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
With its long beach, quiet harbor, and friendly locals, Essaouira has become one of the more tranquil spots in Morocco. Windsurfers glide over the waves, the cries of the seagulls echo in the air, and fishing boats pull into the harbor. The salt air is a refreshing change after a few days in Marrakech or the heat of the Sahara.
Fun fact about Essaouira: if you are a fan of Game of Thrones, you will recognize Essaouira as the backdrop from which Daenerys Targaryen bought her army of Unsullied soldiers.
The History of Essaouira travel Guide
Essaouira has always been a port. It is known that prehistoric settlements existed and that in the 5th Century B.C., the city of Essaouira existed.
The first known settlement was founded. Like much of Morocco’s coastline, it passed through Phoenician, Carthaginian, and Roman control. After the Romans left Morocco, Juba II, a tribal king, set up a factory to process a purple dye prized for its richness of color. The dye was extracted from the murex, a type of sea snail native to the Purple Islands, just off the beach of Essaouira.
Sidi Megdoul became the local name for this settlement. It was the name of a religious leader who had been a burial site here in the 11th century. But it wasn’t until the Portuguese built the ramparts and walled the town in 1506 that Essaouira as we know it began to take shape. They called it Mogador. This is probably a corruption of Megdoul. Essaouira was a fortified Portuguese stronghold. So were a number of other cities in Morocco, such as Asilah and El-Jedida. The Portuguese lost control of the town. Like Salé, Rabat, and Asilah to the north, Essaouira remained a pirate stronghold until the 18th century.
The music of Essaouira
Today, music and art are two of the main year-round attractions in this tranquil center of Morocco. Jimi Hendrix once stayed here. Rumour has it that the song “Castles Made of Sand” was written while he was in Essaouira. Of course, the album’s release date was 1967 and Jimi’s trip to Essaouira wasn’t until 1969 – a full two years after the fact! Proof that rumors are just that. However, it was here that blues, rock, and local Gnawa music first collided in the turbulent 60s, creating a fusion of incredible music unheard of anywhere else in the world.
Every year at the end of June there is a music festival, the Gnaoua Festival of World Music. All year round you will find musicians playing traditional Gnaoua music on the walls. Essaouira is home to several painters and sculptors. Several shops and galleries scattered around the medina showcase some of the more popular artists. In 2013, Essaouria was chosen as one of the “ten happiest destinations” in the world by the television program “Voyages”.
Essaouira travel guide: What to do
Go kite surfing: Well… go kite surfing anyway. Essaouira is known as the wind capital of North Africa, and rightly so. Due to the natural geography of the area, the wind can pick up at any time of the year. Just south of the medina, there are several places where you can rent surfing equipment. You can also take lessons in surfing, kiteboarding, windsurfing or kitesurfing. The latter is the latest attraction in this seaside town. There are near-perfect conditions every day of the year. Learn to kitesurf or windsurf with the experienced professionals at the ION Club. There are more companies than we can include in this Essaouira guide! The high season runs from early April to late September.
Go on a cruise: There is a cruise in the harbor from 10.30 to 14.30. The cruise is weather-dependent and best booked the day before. Also available are sunset cruises. Tea and Moroccan pastries are included on both cruises.
Spice shopping: Fill your pockets with the elusive saffron at Si Said’s shop in the spice market. If you’re lucky, you might even find some ‘royal tea’. Made from a combination of 15 spices, this is a special Moroccan tea. If you’re lucky, you’re going to find this reasonably priced too. Said is located at 199 Marché aux épices, behind the fish market in the medina.
Be a beach bum: Most of the people who come to Essaouira do so to enjoy the picturesque beach. There are a number of ruins about 1.5km from the end of the beach. They are well worth a stop. You can explore the ruins on foot, by swimming, or on camel or horseback. On days when the wind is not too strong, Essaouira is one of the more relaxed beaches in the country. Hire a wicker beach chair and relax. Watch the kite surfers and footballers, read a book, and work hard at it.
Get cooking: Atelier Madada, which offers a workshop with Chef Mouna, is undoubtedly one of the best cooking schools in Morocco. Book well in advance. Forgive the plug – it’s just one of the many great activities you can add to your trip to Morocco with our team (see our Essaouira guide for others)! You’ll be able to choose from a wide variety of dishes on a carefully selected menu. An extensive kitchen awaits the creativity of experienced chefs and non-cooks alike. Cooking classes run from 10 am to 2 pm. A patisserie class is also offered from 15:30-17:30, except Sundays.
Shop at Mashi Mushki: Named after the phrase in Moroccan Arabic equivalent to Australian (Aussie) “no worries”, 10% of the profits from this small shop/gallery – located in the north of the medina on go to Project 91, a charity that works with children in the area. And on the other side of the street is the Project 91 charity shop, which sells second-hand clothes and other goods. 100% of the profits go to the local community. Mashi Mushki is open from 11 am to 6 pm and the Project 91 shop is open most afternoons.
Admire Upcycled Trash: Using junk you might find in a garage, the artist who goes by his first name, Rachid, creates some funky statues from recycled bits you might find in your uncle’s garage. They make a great gift or centerpiece for your home. Rachid’s workshop and shop is about a hundred yards past Bab Marrakesh on the west side of the medina. Some of his sculptures made from recycled materials include snails, fish, and ants playing the violin. You’re guaranteed to find something to make you smile. Be sure to tell him that you found him in the JBT Essaouira travel guide!
Essaouira travel guide: What to see
The Ramparts: Watch the sunset over the Atlantic and take a stroll along the old Portuguese ramparts. Listen to the waves and watch the world turn to shades of orange, pink, and red. Bring your camera! Many old (non-functioning) cannons line the cobbles, making for great photo opportunities. The best viewpoint is probably on the north side of the ramparts. Beneath the ramparts, there are several craft shops selling local handicrafts. These are well worth a look for trinkets and souvenirs.
Mellah: In the 18th century, the Jewish population made up almost half of Essaouira’s population. To experience some of this history, visit the large Jewish cemetery, see the many synagogues that are still intact and note the Stars of David engraved above many of the doors in this area.
Sidi Mohamed Ben Abdallah Museum – Check out the collection of pottery, jewelry, weapons, and tools in this converted 19th-century riad for a glimpse into the history of the region. For architecture buffs, the photo exhibition of Essaouira’s history is worth the price of admission.
Essaouira travel guide: Where to eat
La Table Madada: Upscale French-Moroccan fusion at its best. The menu includes classics such as spider crab and avocado tartare with a hint of argan oil. Tiger prawns are grilled to perfection and served with Moroccan chermoula and saffron rice from Taliouine. Tapas are also served. A great option for a quick bite before heading out into the city. 7 rue Youssef el Fassi, +212 (0)5 24 47 55 12. Open Wed-Mon, 7 pm-11 pm, reservations highly recommended.
Dar Kenavo: The fine Dar Kenavo serves lunch and dinner in an all-organic mix with a seasonal menu. It’s a little more upmarket with a three-course lunch and dinner. Located about 12km from the medina, it has a lovely garden and heated pool. A nice break from the beach crowds for those who want to spend an afternoon by the pool. Douar Bouzama – BP344, Ghazoua, +212 (0)5 24 47 48 35. Reservations onlyChez Sam – Chez Sam serves fresh fish from the nearby dock. The menu is both filling and delicious. A rustic harbor restaurant with a nice terrace, but unfortunately, like most restaurants, smoking is allowed. Essaouira harbour, +212 (0)5 44 47 65 13. Open daily from 12.00 to 15.00 and 19.00 to 23.00. Reservations recommended. Triskala Cafe – A great place to stop off for some delicious vegetarian options or just a quick cup of tea or coffee. The 60s are channeled in a funky vibe. The walls are lined with pictures of Bob Dylan and Jimi Hendrix, among others. Serving only local products, this is an eco-friendly café. Touahen Street, +212 (0)5 24 47 63 73. Open Mon-Sat 10h00 – 22h00, Sun 13h00 – 22h00, no reservations.
Caravane Cafe Art: Recommended by some previous travelers as a great little place to grab a bite, Caravane Cafe Art offers a variety of menu options; even Indonesian and vegan! 2, Qadi Ayad Street, Medina, +212 (0)5 24 78 31 11. Open Tues-Sun 11 am-23pm, reservations recommended.
Beach and Friends: Located on the beach south of the Medina. Beer, wine, and cocktails served alfresco in lounge chairs listening to the surf. A great place to have a refreshing midday drink or watch the sunset. Food is optional and easy to skip. However, one of the best places to start the evening with an aperitif. 5 Mohamed Boulevard, Corniche, +212 (0)5 24 47 45 58. No reservations needed, open daily from 11 am to 11 pm.
Port Grills: Great for seafood lovers (although you’ll have to negotiate with vendors from each stall), this place has fish stalls comparable to Jemaa el-Fnaa (which you can read about in our Marrakech guide), though admittedly cleaner. It lacks creativity and variety, but it’s a great place to pick up some fresh local food. Located just before the port on Ramparts Road. Negotiate a bit, but plan on getting a huge plate of sardines, a medium sole, a medium Rouget, a small pageant, a handful of prawns, a couple of lobsters, and a huge crab for around 120 dirhams. Seagulls fly overhead, so be on the lookout for unwanted droppings from above! Everything is grilled BBQ-style with a few sauces, accompaniments, or condiments.
Find out more about Essaouira during our travel Guide of the Essaouira
Read more about Essaouira in our collection of articles that highlight some of the more hidden parts of the town. You can also read about other places in Morocco, such as in our guide to Casablanca, or another special ‘blue city’ in our guide to Chefchaouen, a quaint Spanish-influenced town nestled in the mountains.
Discover more about Morocco on a tour:
Sahara Morocco Travel arranges bespoke and private tours in Morocco. If you’re interested in more information, please get in touch. We are ready to take you on an unforgettable journey!
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