get to know Fes during our Fez travel guide, As you stroll through the famous blue gate of the Bab Boujeloud, it feels as if you have been transported back 1,000 years in time. The bustling cafes and open-air markets quickly give way to quiet, narrow streets where children play and donkeys work hard to carry supplies up and down the winding mud-brick corridors of the medieval town. This is the oldest part of Fès, Fès el-Bali. It is the largest car-free urban area in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This is where the majority of travelers choose to spend their time in Fès.
When you walk through Fez el-Bali, you are literally walking through 1,300 years of Moroccan heritage, which has only recently been touched by the advent of globalization and the recent influx of tourists, but even with this increase in tourism, the magic of Fez has endured. So much history has survived in the city. Ancient mosques and madrasas (often called madrassas, Islamic schools) dot the labyrinthine city. Although non-Muslims are not allowed to enter any of the mosques, there are two medusas – the Bou Inania and the el-Attarine – both of which give a sense of the splendor of Islamic architecture. Be on the lookout for the balance of intricate stucco and tile work in the decoration of these architectural gems!
Fez travel guide – Medina
There are two other parts of the city besides the labyrinthine Fez el-Bali: Fez el Jdid (the “new part of the city”, dating back several hundred years) and the Ville Nouvelle (French for “new city”, built during the French protectorate period in the first half of the 20th century). Although most of the activities and sites of interest to travelers are in the old city, many travelers find themselves venturing into Fez el-Jdid to visit the Jewish quarter, and the Dar Batha museum and take a stroll in the Jnane Sbil gardens. Most, however, avoid the Ville Nouvelle altogether unless they are traveling to the airport, train station, or for a bite to eat somewhere a little more modern than Fez el-Bali.
Fès is a medieval city, a world heritage site, and for centuries life has gone on in much the same way. What you will find is that with globalization, Fès has become a melting pot of different languages. Arabic, French, English, and many other languages are spoken or understood by most shopkeepers, waiters, and other workers. Moroccans also enjoy learning English, especially since Morocco was the first nation that recognize the USA as independent.
There is a constant interplay between the hustle and bustle of the small, winding alleys of the medina and the quiet, contemplative interior spaces that give Fez its charm. Today, the past blends with the present in unexpected ways that are waiting to be discovered. “fez travel guide” All of this makes Fez a destination that is a must for every visitor to Morocco.
Notes on the history of Fez
Idriss II, son of the founder of modern Morocco, although the origins of its naming are not known. Some scholars believe it comes from the ancient Berber name for the Central Atlas, Fazaz, while others trace the name back to the story of a golden axe that bisected the river of Fez (in Arabic, a fez is an axe).
The real growth of Fès began between 817 and 818 AD, when about 800 refugee families from Córdoba, Spain, arrived, followed a few years later by more than 2000 Tunisian families. For more than 300 years, these settlements fought each other. It wasn’t until the Almoravids arrived in 1070 AD that the city began to enjoy some peace.
It was under the Almoravid rule that the city of Fès took shape and the walls of Fès were built, walls that still form the outline of the present-day Fès El-Bali. Around 1170 AD, Fès was the largest city in the world and had a population of more than 200,000. It was an important trading center, serving Africa and Europe, the gold route from Timbuktu, the famous tanneries with a reputation for making leather shields.
In 1250 AD, the Mercenaries conquered Morocco and Fez became their capital. It was at this time that Fez el-Jdid, the “new” city, was built, with wider streets, gardens, and many administrative centers. This is also when Fez really began to become a cultural and intellectual center, and the “Fassi” style was born, combining Andalusian and Almohad traditions. Excellent examples of the ornate architecture of this period are the Bou Inania and el-Attarine Medersae.
Today, because of its history and role as the spiritual and educational capital of Morocco, Fez is known as the “Athens of Africa” and the “Mecca of the West”.
Fez travel guide – Morocco: Where to go and what to do
Get yourself lost! – Fez’s old town is a medieval labyrinth of winding streets. There are plenty of children who will tell you when you have reached a dead end. Understanding that Fez is shaped like a bowl is an easy way to find your way out of the maze. They go downhill to get into the maze, so they have to go uphill to get out… although they might end up somewhere they didn’t expect. It’s a good idea to have some small change for a taxi so that you can easily get from one “gate” of the city (such as Bab Boujeloud) to the other. If you have time for a day’s wandering in Fès, it will be a day you will remember for the rest of your life. things to do in Fez
Talaa Kebeera walk: Talaa Kebeera is the biggest street in Fès. It runs through most of the medina, starting just after Bab Boujeloud Just off this main thoroughfare are many different shops, souks, and attractions. Although often crowded with locals and tourists alike, it is a nice taste of old Fès. in our Fez Travel Guide, we offer you tours from Fes
Take a guided tour: Although less adventurous than getting lost, taking a guided tour of Fez is a great way to learn some of the history and to get your bearings in this confusing medina. This is just one of the many included activities that you can enjoy on a private tour of Morocco with our team of experts. In Fez, you’ll discuss your interests with your local guide before setting off for a full day of exploration.
Visit a hammam (traditional Moroccan bath): After a few days in Fez, there is nothing like scrubbing yourself clean. If you are interested in a local experience, there are several local hammams (or “public baths”). You can ask the staff at your accommodation for the nearest local hammam and they will be happy to show you around and give you the opening times, which vary from place to place. You must bring your own soap, towel, scrubbing brush and other utensils. The majority of them offer a superior experience with private and couple’s spas and massages.
Festival of Religious Music: The Festival of Religious Music takes place each June and is one of the largest music festivals in Morocco, featuring music from all over the world. In 2013, the festival will take place from 7 to 15 June. The theme will be Andalusia. For up-to-date information, visit the Fez Sacred Music Festival website.
Take a cookery course: Moroccan cuisine is often ranked alongside French and Italian cuisine as some of the best in the world – and for good reason! There is nothing like good food to bring people together. No doubt you have already had a taste of couscous, tajine, or perhaps a bowl of Harrira. If you would like to have a fun afternoon making your own lunch, meet some great people, and have a recipe to take home with you, then why not join us for an afternoon of cooking school? Café Clock has a great cooking class that includes a short guided tour of the Medina, where you will learn everything you need to know about Morocco’s grocery souks. (Dhs 600 per person, so be sure to book in advance by e-mail: fez@cafeclock.com)
Fez travel guide: What to see in Fez el Bali
Bab Boujeloud: Bab Boujeloud (Bab Boujeloud), commonly known as the ‘blue gate’, is the main entrance to the old Fès medina and is a great place to meet up with a group. Through this gate you can access the Talaa Kbeera (Big Hill) on your left and the Talaa Sghira (Small Hill) on your right, past a number of restaurants all serving fairly similar Moroccan-style food. Both of these roads run through the main thoroughfares of the old Medina and join together near the henna souk. The turn of the 20th century saw the construction of Bab Boujeloud and its immediate surroundings. Of particular note is the French-built gate, which is blue on the outside and green on the inside. Both façades are decorated with elaborate zelliges and are well worth a photo opportunity.
Bou Inania Medersa: The green-tiled minaret of the Bou Inania Medersa rises into the sky as you enter the old medina through the big blue Bab Boujeloud gate. It is one of Spain’s best examples of 14C Merengue architecture. It is best to visit the Medersa with a guide to avoid any problems, as non-Muslims are sometimes forbidden entry due to prayer times (open every day except Friday, opening hours vary, 10 Dhs).
Tanneries: The smell is free… but if you want to buy, you have to pay” is a common comment from guides. You will probably be asked if you want directions to the tannery. Don’t forget that when it’s hot, there’s no need for directions. There are a number of shops that sell the goods made in the tanneries in the area. Many of them have terraces where you can look down at the terraces for free. Although entry and a look at the tanneries are free, you might be tempted to buy some handmade Moroccan leather goods. Open every day except Fridays. Free of charge.
Al-Karaouine University: The Al-Karaouine Mosque and University in Fez, Morocco, was founded in 859 AD by Fatima al-Fihri, a woman who fled her native Tunisia for Morocco. It is considered by UNESCO to be the oldest university in the world. The library contains several extremely valuable documents dating back to around 780 AD, including Malik’s Al-Mu’watta written on gazelle parchment, and excitingly will soon be open to the public.
Medersa al-Attarine: This is the other member open to non-Muslims, next to the Qarawiyyin mosque in the heart of the medina. Like the Bou Inania Medersa, this beautiful, almost 1,000-year-old Medersa is decorated with intricate tiles, stucco, and woodwork. Ask to go upstairs to see the student quarters. (Open every day except Friday, opening hours vary, 10 Dhs).
Fondouk el-Nejjarine: Facing the old Place el-Nejjarine or “Carpenter’s Square”, the Fondouk el-Nejjarine (also known as the “Wood Museum” and the “Musée de Bois”). Originally a “caravanserai” or “roadside inn” for travelers and merchants, the Fondouk was built in the 18th century. A former minister restored the Fondouk and turned it into the museum it is today at a cost of 25 million dirhams (about $3 million). Spend about an hour in this beautifully restored building to learn about Moroccan woodworking, tools, and a collection of wood and joinery, both ancient, dating back to the 14th century, and more modern, from different regions of Morocco. Be sure to leave time for a visit to the roof terrace, which offers one of the best views of Fès. A drink on the terrace will set you back 10 dhs. (Open daily from 10 am to 5 pm; 20 Dhs).
Henna souk: The souks (usually a large square of shops) are interwoven throughout the Medina, and often blend into one another so that it’s hard to tell where to go. However, the Henna Souk, a nicely shaded souk tucked under a couple of large plane trees, can be found at the bottom of the medina, just off Trek K’beer. Leo Africanus once worked in the now-defunct psychiatric hospital here. It was built in the 1300s. Pottery and traditional cosmetics are sold here, so if you want to buy argan oil or other Moroccan goods, talk to Mohammed at the last cosmetics stall near the old hospital.
Nejjarine square and museum: Located near the carpenter’s souk in the heart of the medina, this beautiful square is dotted with 18th-century Andalusian-style architecture. The museum is housed in a former Foudok that a former minister restored at a cost of 25 million dirhams (about $3 million). The museum displays woodworking tools. It also has a collection of wood and cabinetwork, both ancient and modern, from different regions of Morocco. Open every day. From 10 am to 7 pm. 10dhs.
Fez travel guide: What to see in Fez el-Jdid
Batha Museum – Housed in a 19th-century Moorish palace, the Dar Batha Museum houses many artifacts, carved wood, plaster, jewels, carpets, and pottery. 9 am-5 pm, closed Tuesdays and public holidays, 10dh
Mellah: Fez’s mellah, or Jewish district, was established in 1438. It is the oldest of Morocco’s mullahs, although very few Jews live here today, most having moved to Casablanca, France or Israel. Today, with its ornate balconies and wrought-iron windows, the mullah section is well worth a stroll. There’s a great view from the terrace of the Danan synagogue on rue Der el-Ferah Teati, and the Jewish cemetery is worth a visit, but beware of fake guides and people asking for money; it’s best to go with a knowledgeable guide if you want to avoid harassment. If you’re interested, you can read more about Jewish areas in Morocco.
Merenid Tombs: Many sultans and other members of the Merenid dynasty are buried in the 14th-century Merenid tombs just outside the medina. No guide is needed. It’s about a 10 Dhs taxi ride from the Medina and a simple 12-minute walk down the hill back to the Medina. This is a nice place to pack a lunch if it’s not too hot. However, you don’t want to get caught out here at night.
Fez travel guide – Morocco: Where to eat in Fez
Some of our favorite restaurants are listed below. For a more complete selection of restaurants, searchable by location, cuisine and price, see Best Restaurants of Morocco.
Dar Roumana: Mediterranean cuisine using seasonal and local ingredients, put together by a French chef. Served in the courtyard for lunch and dinner. In the medina of Fez, close to Bab Guissa and Ain Azlitan. +212 (0) 5 35 74 16 37 or +212 (0) 6 60 29 04 04. Open from Tuesday to Saturday. Reservations required. Best booked the day before.
Restaurant 7: French cuisine served in an atmosphere of minimalist design. Black-and-white décor, classic music. Surprisingly good vegetarian and seafood options. Perfect for a light dinner to balance all that couscous! 7 Zkak Rouah, Medina of Fez. Open Tues-Sun. +212 6 94 27 78 49. Reservations required.
Chez Rachid in Bab Boujeloud: Join the locals at this ramshackle café just inside the Blue Gate. Tagines and kebabs are on the menu, but everyone really comes here to watch the passers-by. Bab Boujeloud, Fez medina. Open daily. No reservations.
Riad Rcif: Traditional home-cooked Fassi-Moroccan food in an upmarket setting. Book in advance and get a table on the terrace to really enjoy the sunset. This is the place to try the pastilla if you haven’t already. Avenue Ben Mohamed El Alaoui, N° 1 Takharbicht Laayoune rcif.
Open every day +212 (0)5 35 74 00 37. Reservations are highly recommended.
Café Clock: Cosmopolitan atmosphere. Dining inside and on the terrace. Moroccan/Middle Eastern cuisine. Famous for the camel burger. Many events take place here (films, concerts and cooking classes). No alcohol. 7 Derb El Magaña. +212 (0)5 35 63 78 55. Opened every day for lunch and dinner. No reservations are required.
Riad Salama: Moroccan cuisine served in a luxurious courtyard, weather permitting, of course. Reservation required. Derb Ahl Tadla at number 4. 212 (0)5 35 63 57 30. Tue-Sun for breakfast and dinner. Booking is required one day in advance.
Mezzanine: Just outside the medina, this is a chic, hip little venue. The main attractions here are a full bar, lounge, and rooftop terrace. Enjoy Spanish tapas, selected Moroccan dishes, and late-night cocktails. Located on Avenue Moulay El Hassan. +212 (0)5 35 63 86 68. Open daily from noon to 1 a.m. No reservations were necessary.
Kai Tai: Thai and sushi in Morocco! Located in the Ville Nouvelle, just outside the medina. For those in the mood for something decidedly un-Moroccan, a great stop for a lighter lunch or dinner. 12 boulevard Ahmed Chaouki. +212 (0)5 35 65 17 00. Open daily. No reservations were necessary.
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Meet the team at Sahara Morocco Travel offers several unique itineraries allowing you to experience the real Morocco. Our Eclectic Tour will give you an overview of the highlights of the country in terms of culture and landscape, while our Imperial Cities Tour will take you to the most inspiring places, including museums, UNESCO sites, and much more. We also offer a range of tours to the Sahara Desert in Morocco. We hope you enjoy our website during Fez travel Guide and quality articles. you can also join us on Facebook and Instagram.
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