So what exactly is a riad? 

Traditionally in Morocco, a riad (meaning garden in Arabic) was a house built for a multigenerational family’s privacy. Riads were built tall but narrow, centred around a courtyard or atrium with rooms that faced inwards and opened up. The expression “never judge a book by its cover” could have been invented for the riad. From the outside, it can look like a bare brick or mud wall, a veritable fortress with a heavy door and no outside windows. Step inside and you are likely to be greeted by the scent of flowers and the splash of a fountain in the courtyard.

Moroccan riads are an architect’s and designer’s dream, and more often than not, they live up to Instagram expectations. They are the quintessential Moroccan experience, often characterised by rose petals and romantic nooks. The colourful tiles and indoor gardens, perfumed with jasmine and orange blossom, were traditionally cool retreats where the women of the house did most of their socialising. Of course, traditional riads had no running water. Residents bathed in the local hammam or bathhouse.

Fortunately, many of the old buildings have been renovated and updated with modern amenities alongside the traditional decorative details, making them perfect for overnight guests. Running water and plumbing are standard, of course, as are plunge pools, roof gardens, restaurants, spas and bubbling fountains. Riads range in price from budget to super splurge. Some riads are so luxurious and over the top that they are worth a visit in themselves. If your budget does not allow for luxury, some of these top-end riads are open to the public for a rooftop cocktail in the evening or a house speciality tajine for lunch.

Choosing a Riad in Morocco:

Once you have narrowed down your options to within your budget, chances are you will still be spoilt for choice. With so many beautifully renovated riads to choose from, the pressure of planning the perfect Moroccan trip can be overwhelming, but here are a few points to keep in mind. If you are in Marrakech in midsummer, choose the riad with the perfect plunge pool in the courtyard. When visiting Fez in the winter, make sure your room has a heater or chimney because it may chill. Moroccan riads are generally more about keeping cool in the summer than warm in the winter.

Location is another important point to consider before hitting the book button. Try to get an idea of how central – or not – the riad is. Is it in the same area as the restaurant you want to try or the museum at the top of your itinerary? If you are driving, check with the riad about parking. As parking in and around a medina is at a premium, expect to pay for overnight parking.

Some parts of the medina can be very noisy at night if they are located on a busy square or thoroughfare, although this is where the design of the central courtyard comes into play, as the hustle and bustle of the outside world can pass unnoticed as you sip your mint tea behind closed doors.

What to expect from your riad:

The architectural style of the riad is designed to keep things cool and comfortable. In places like Marrakech and Fez, where it can get very hot in the middle of the summer, riads are usually designed with high ceilings and minimal windows, so don’t expect to be able to throw open your windows and look out over the medina. The thick walls and fountains in the courtyard help to cool the air, making the use of air conditioning unnecessary except on the hottest days. On the coast, in places such as Essaouira, the impenetrable walls that characterise the riads of Marrakech are punctuated by more outward-facing windows, allowing the sea breeze to filter through to the courtyard. Coastal riads also tend to be lighter and brighter, with bedrooms often smaller and less reliant on the high ceilings found inland to keep temperatures down. Although the basic characteristics of riads are similar throughout the country, architectural styles and details vary from town to town, depending on local materials, climate and history. Coastal towns often have a Spanish or Portuguese historical connection and this is reflected in the architecture, while the red and ochre walls of Marrakech look out over the desert.

Some Riad reminders

Before you book your stay, a few things to remember about riads…

• Riads usually have only one entrance and it stays locked around the clock. Inner rooms often don’t have locks, so check with the staff before leaving valuables.
• Riads are often owned by foreigners and staffed mainly by Moroccans who may not be fluent in English. Be prepared to make some gestures if you don’t speak French or Arabic well.
• Finding your riad can be an adventure in itself, as they are located in labyrinthine, narrow streets and have no distinguishing features other than a small sign. Get clear directions when you book and don’t be afraid to use a map. Alternatively, arrange a central meeting point so that you can be taken directly to the riad.
• Riads are so quiet, peaceful and beautiful that it’s easy to spend a day or two resting on outdoor cushions and sipping mint tea. Make sure you don’t isolate yourself from the rest of the city.
  There is nothing quite like lounging on the roof of a riad as the sun sets, listening to the call to prayer from a local mosque echo off the ancient walls, after a long and exciting day exploring the souks and medina. You’ll really feel like you’ve landed in Morocco.

Riad decorative details

As restoration is the key to many renovations, you may find a treasure trove of Moroccan craftsmanship on the walls, floors and even ceilings – especially the ceilings – of your riad. The riad is likely to be decorated with Tadelakt plaster, stucco decoration and zellij tiles. Painted and carved wooden doors, handmade lanterns and woven rugs are all part of the Moroccan riad lifestyle, making your riad much more than just a place to drop your suitcase before heading out into the medina.

What a difference a riad makes

In your search for the perfect place to stay, you will come across a few other words that will give you an indication of the style and location of the accommodation on offer. When exploring the riads on offer, some may use the term dar as a prefix. While riad means garden, the word dar translates quite simply as house, and traditionally a dar would have been a somewhat more modest home with a central courtyard rather than a garden. Like a riad, it will be built on a number of levels that face inwards, with rooms that open onto the courtyard. Dares may not have formal gardens, but the patio may still be filled with fountains and fragrant plants. The boundaries between the dar and the riad are blurred, and both offer the traditional design details and lifestyle that will make your trip to Morocco unforgettable.